10 days · 5 links courses · 4 hotels
This journey takes you to places you do not pass by chance. It starts in Glasgow, runs down the long Kintyre peninsula to Machrihanish, crosses the sea to Islay and ends on the Ayrshire coast near Troon.
On the way, you play five links courses: Machrihanish and Machrihanish Dunes at the southern tip of Kintyre, The Machrie on Islay, and Dundonald and Glasgow Gailes in Ayrshire.
Getting there is part of the story. You drive more than three hours down one peninsula, take a ferry for more than two hours and arrive on an island that is famous for its whisky and has a course that is worth every minute of the journey.
You change hotel only three times: three nights in Campbeltown, two on Islay and three in Troon.
I particularly wanted to plan this trip because it can probably be done all year round. I am often in Scotland in late autumn or winter, and this is the part of the country where I appreciate being most likely to get a round in.
Day 1
One night in the city
Glasgow is the gateway to this journey, and it is worth a night. Collect your rental car at the airport on arrival. On this trip, that makes sense: you can set off quickly the next morning, and as the way ahead is long, you will be glad to have a relaxed breakfast first. I chose the hotel mainly for its excellent road connections.
Use the rest of the day to find your feet. The Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is free to enter, and the West End around it is a good place for a walk. For dinner, I recommend Mother India in Finnieston. It is less than 20 minutes’ walk from the hotel and one of my absolute favourite Indian restaurants. It is very popular, so I would book a table. On the way back, it is worth stopping at one of the many pubs on Sauchiehall Street or Bath Street, and perhaps there is an interesting gig at King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut on St Vincent Street, very close to the hotel.
Stay
The Hilton Glasgow is a great base for the start of this journey. The location makes it easy to get onto the motorway and head north towards Loch Lomond, and the city centre is within easy reach. The hotel restaurant is good, and I particularly like the attractive breakfast room in the Executive Lounge. The staff are consistently friendly and attentive. You stay here for one night.
Day 2
Down the peninsula to Campbeltown
You already have your rental car, so you can set off straight after breakfast and head for Loch Lomond. The drive to Campbeltown takes about three hours and twenty minutes without stops, and it is one of the most beautiful in this part of Scotland. The A82 follows the loch, the A83 climbs over the Rest and Be Thankful pass, and then the road follows Loch Fyne, past Inveraray, to Tarbert, the gateway to Kintyre.
On the way, you can fit in a visit to Inveraray Castle, the seat of Clan Campbell, which is well worth seeing for its lavish interiors. Check the opening times beforehand to avoid disappointment. Stop for lunch in Inveraray or in Tarbert.
The scenic stretch down the Kintyre peninsula is said to have inspired Paul McCartney, who had a farm here, to write the Beatles classic “The Long and Winding Road”. Still, there is no need to be afraid of the drive: the road is very well built, and the traffic is manageable.
You arrive in Campbeltown in the afternoon and check in at the Royal Hotel on the harbour. For the first evening, I recommend the pub in the hotel, The Black Sheep Pub. It is the most practical choice after a long day, and the food is very okay.
Stay
The Royal Hotel is managed by the operators of Machrihanish Dunes and lies right on Campbeltown harbour, so the view from the rooms is a real highlight. My room was really huge. You stay here for three nights.
Day 3
The opening hole across the beach
Today you play the course that gives the area its name. Machrihanish was first laid out in 1876, and Old Tom Morris extended it to 18 holes in 1879. Jack Nicklaus once called the opening hole the best in the world. You tee off straight across the Atlantic beach.
The course is remote, and that is part of its charm. Tom Doak calls it one of his favourite places to get away from it all.
From the 5th hole on, you face what is known as “the gauntlet”, a run of punishing tee shots where only precision pays. For the rest of the front nine, simply having the ball in play off the tee is a relief. The fairways collect the ball from both sides, with a deep bunker guarding the left and fescue-covered dunes lining the right. Find the fairway, and you are rewarded with a short approach. I am sorry to say that I hardly found one.
After the round, I recommend a drink in the clubhouse, which is open to green-fee players on the day of their booked round. It has a lovely view over the course and the bay.
In the afternoon, I recommend a visit and tour of the historic Springbank Distillery in Campbeltown. It is quite different from other distillery visits: Springbank is the only distillery in Scotland that malts all of its own barley on traditional floor maltings, and much of its equipment has been looked after for decades. It is really cool. Afterwards, be sure to taste a whisky or two. The choice is large, as three different whisky brands are produced here.
For dinner, either go back to the hotel, especially if the tasting took longer, or try The Kintyre Restaurant & Bar at the Ugadale Hotel. You have to drive there, which you should keep in mind when planning the whisky tasting.
Day 4
Kidd’s course in the dunes
Machrihanish Dunes lies right next to its famous neighbour, and the two courses could hardly be more different. David McLay Kidd designed it in 2008. It was the first course ever built on a Site of Special Scientific Interest, so he was not allowed to move any earth beyond the tees and greens. Of 259 acres, only seven were touched.
The result is a course that feels as if it had always been there. It easily makes it into my personal top ten. I played it on a lousy cold day in November, and I will come back, as soon as my hands have thawed.
Here is another tip. Bad weather and poor light were the reason why I decided against a round at Dunaverty Golf Club, which lies at the very southern end of the peninsula. The area is known as the Mull of Kintyre, which will probably give everyone of a certain age an instant earworm. Thank you, Mister Paul McCartney.
For an early dinner, I would again recommend the Ugadale Hotel, this time The Old Clubhouse Pub.
In the evening, check your ferry booking for tomorrow, pack your bag and have an early night.
Day 5
By ferry to The Machrie
Today, you leave Kintyre. Drive north on the A83 to Kennacraig, where the ferry to Islay leaves, and arrive in good time. Please note that the harbour at Port Ellen is closed until 2029, so for now the ferry sails to the island’s other port, Port Askaig. The crossing takes about two hours and twenty minutes. Take a coffee on deck, look at the Paps of Jura if the weather is clear, and think of the golf course that awaits you. Ferries should be booked as early as possible.
From Port Askaig, the drive to The Machrie takes about 30 minutes across a truly scenic island. Check in, take a walk along the dunes, and have dinner in the hotel. The food is excellent. We had a few oysters and then lobster, and we were very happy. The hotel restaurant overlooks the golf course, and the sunset here is especially beautiful, if you see the sun, that is.
Islay is the whisky island, and its many distilleries are a subject in themselves. Laphroaig, Ardbeg and Lagavulin all lie near Port Ellen, very close to the hotel. We will come back to them tomorrow, but I think you should be aware of the topic from the start, because whisky is such a big part of Islay.
Stay
The Machrie, Port Ellen, Islay
We chose Another Place, The Machrie, primarily because it is the hotel associated with The Machrie Golf Links. All the better, then, that the hotel is impressive in its own right. From the warm welcome on arrival to the fantastic dinner and the varied breakfast, everything here is just right. Unfortunately, it is a bit pricey. You stay here for two nights.
Day 6
Made for gowf
Willie Campbell designed the course in 1891. Legend has it that he spent just two days on Islay before he concluded that this place was made for gowf. In 1901, Harry Vardon, JH Taylor and James Braid played an exhibition match here for what was then the richest purse in golf, £100.
The original layout had 17 blind shots. DJ Russell smoothed out most of them in a redesign between 2013 and 2018. When getting to a golf course is as challenging as travelling to Islay, the hopes are high, and The Machrie lived up to them. The rollercoaster fairways are a thrilling but always fair ride, and the views of the Atlantic are wonderful.
Keep your camera handy on the 4th hole, where the architecturally interesting hotel makes a lovely contrast to the green. The 5th is called Foirfeached (Perfection), which can hardly refer to my approach shot. The position of the green below the dune fits much better. The 9th, a short par 3 with an elevated tee, is probably, and rightly so, among the most photographed holes on the course. The 15th, Willie’s Fancy, deserves a mention too. The drive over the dunes looks intimidating, but the steeply undulating fairway is wider than it first seems. Even after a good drive, though, the approach to the slightly raised green is never easy.
In the afternoon, look forward to the fine dinner and spend the time with a good book in the hotel’s lovely lounge. Or, if you book in good time, visit one of the distilleries on the south coast: Laphroaig, Lagavulin or Ardbeg. I cannot give you a tip here, because I appreciate whisky very much, but I deliberately leave the smoky Islay ones out.
Day 7
The long way back to the mainland
Today is the longest day of the journey, and you do not play. Take the earliest sailing from Port Askaig to Kennacraig that you can book. After about two hours and twenty minutes at sea, you drive back up the A83 and along Loch Fyne, past Inveraray, and then along Loch Lomond to Glasgow.
From Glasgow, continue south to Troon. You arrive in the afternoon or early evening and check in at Marine & Lawn Troon. After a long day in the car, the spa with its pool can be a worthwhile stop. It was recognised by Condé Nast Traveller as one of the Best Spas in Scotland for 2026.
My tip for the evening is a walk over the Championship course, which is deserted at that hour, to the Postage Stamp at Royal Troon. Please observe the etiquette, of course, and do not step on a tee box or, worse, a green. Have dinner in the Seal Bar and go to bed early.
Stay
Marine & Lawn Troon sits between the first tees of the Old Course and the Portland Course at Royal Troon, so it is impossible to stay any closer to a golf course in town. The entire staff are exceptionally friendly, and I was very pleased with my dinner in the charming Seal Bar. It is not cheap, but given what is on offer, I found the price very reasonable. You stay here for three nights.
Day 8
Kyle Phillips’ modern links
Dundonald Links dates back to 1911, when Willie Fernie first laid it out. Army use in the war left it almost unrecognisable, and Kyle Phillips, known for Kingsbarns, rebuilt it entirely in 2005.
It is a modern resort course with the essential elements of a classic links, even if it is not directly on the shore and the sea is rarely in sight. The fairways are relatively wide, and there are practically no blind shots. The clubhouse is impressive, and the staff in the pro shop and the starter are super friendly. For me, the spark did not quite ignite, but that may have been me.
Why did I choose this course of all places? Because I have played it, and I do not want to recommend anything I do not know. And let us not get this wrong: it is certainly not a bad course, otherwise it would hardly have hosted so many renowned tournaments. Dundonald Links welcomed the Ladies Scottish Open in 2015, 2016 and 2017, the men’s Scottish Open in 2017, the Women’s Scottish Open in 2022 and again in 2025. In addition, it has hosted Final Qualifying for The Open Championship from 2023 until 2026.
For dinner, either go back to the hotel or eat directly after the round in the golf club. I did the latter and was very satisfied. If the weather plays along, the terrace of Marine & Lawn Troon is a perfect place for a drink before or after dinner.
Day 9
A final qualifying venue for The Open
Glasgow Gailes belongs to Glasgow Golf Club, which was founded in 1787 and is the ninth oldest golf club in the world. The club laid out the course in 1892 as its coastal ground, and Willie Park Jr, twice an Open Champion, redesigned it in 1912. Today, it is a regular final qualifying venue for The Open.
The course has no sea views, and none of the holes stuck in my memory. Nevertheless, I had a wonderful day there and can highly recommend it. This is partly because the staff in the pro shop, especially the starter, were extremely friendly.
A plus for Glasgow Gailes is certainly the driving range. After a week of links golf, it may not matter quite as much, but I find it always calms me down to hit a few full shots instead of firing a few balls into a net or practising a few short chips.
In the evening, you can take a last walk along the seafront in Troon, before going back to the hotel for dinner once more. How about a fine steak in the restaurant The Rabbit, which holds two rosettes, as a finale? I would go for the cod myself, though. Fish simply feels so much better when you can hear the gulls screeching on the beach.
Day 10
Home from the Ayrshire coast
After breakfast, drive to Glasgow Airport and return your rental car there. The drive from Troon takes about 45 minutes, but allow more time in the morning rush hour.
If your flight leaves late, you still have time for a last stroll in Troon. Or you could play a round on the Portland Course at Royal Troon, which I have firmly planned for my next visit. If you would like to stay longer, you can add a night in Glasgow at the end.
WHY THIS ROUTE
Kintyre comes first because it is the part that is furthest from Glasgow. The road runs along Loch Lomond and Loch Fyne and then down the whole peninsula, so the road is a sight in its own right. The ferry to Islay leaves from Kennacraig, so Kintyre and Islay belong together.
The route ends in Troon on purpose. The last three nights are the buffer for the Islay ferry. Troon is only about 45 minutes from Glasgow Airport, so you can play two more rounds in Ayrshire and still catch your flight without stress.
You may wonder about Arran. There is no ferry between Islay and Arran, so you would have to travel back to Kennacraig and take a second, smaller ferry from Claonaig to Lochranza on the same day. I left Arran out, so that this route stays easy to plan. You could add it as an extension at the end, from Troon by ferry to Brodick. Its course Shiskine has only twelve holes, but it is a charming place.
I have so far played only the two Ayrshire courses presented here, Dundonald and Glasgow Gailes. Royal Troon has always been too expensive for me, and visitor tee times there are limited. But the region offers far more than this route can hold. Links courses are plentiful along this coast, from current and former Open venues such as Royal Troon, Prestwick and Turnberry to public courses, which makes the area very attractive, even if it is no insider tip.
Two days are long: Day 2, when you drive to Kintyre, and Day 7, when you leave Islay. On both, you do not play, and it is better that way.
Best time: You can travel all year round, but I recommend the period from the end of March to the end of November.
The ferry to Islay: The crossing from Kennacraig to Port Askaig takes about 2 hours 20 minutes and is operated by CalMac. Book your ticket for the car as soon as your dates are fixed, because the ferry is the one part of this trip that is not flexible. The harbour at Port Ellen is closed until 2029, so for now all sailings call at Port Askaig, which is about 30 minutes by road from The Machrie.
Weather and cancellations: In strong wind, ferries can be delayed or cancelled. That is why this route ends with three nights in Troon. If the ferry back from Islay does not sail on Day 7, you lose a day, and you can make it up in Ayrshire. Look at the CalMac service status before you leave Islay.
The A83: The road at the Rest and Be Thankful is prone to landslides and can be closed for a short time. Check Traffic Scotland before you set off on Day 2 and Day 7.
Tee times: Book Machrihanish, Machrihanish Dunes, The Machrie, Dundonald and Glasgow Gailes as early as you can, and start with The Machrie and Machrihanish.
Whisky: Islay is famous for its distilleries. The three on the south coast (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg) lie on the road east of Port Ellen, only a few minutes apart. Book a tour in advance, as places run out in summer. Campbeltown, too, has distilleries to see, among them Springbank and Glen Scotia.
Rental car: Pick up your rental car at Glasgow Airport on arrival. You do not need it in the city itself, but it lets you start quickly on the morning of Day 2. I always follow two rules. First, book an automatic. It costs more, but when you are driving on the left, you will be glad not to change gear with your left hand. Second, choose a smaller car. On the narrower roads, you will be glad it isn’t too wide.
Getting home: From Troon, Glasgow Airport is about 45 minutes away. Glasgow Prestwick is even closer, about 10 minutes.
